Newport Past

Did Newport have a Town Wall?

© Bob Trett July 2007

Historians have never agreed whether Newport ever had a town wall. The Tudor antiquarian, John Leland, visited the town in the 1530's. In his "Itinerary in Wales" he records:

Newport is a bigge towne wherof that parte where the paroche chirch is, stondith on a hille. The chirch is S. Guntle (Woolos), Olave in Englisch.
Ther is a great stone gate by the bridge at the este ende of the toun, a nother yn the middle of the town as in the High strete to passé thorough, and the third at the west end of the toune : and hard without it is the paroche chirch. The fairest of the toun is al yn one streate. The toun is yn ruine. Ther was a house of religion by the key beneth the bridg. The castelle is on the este side of the toun above the bridge.

Later in the same account he says:

Newport is in Wentlugh (Gwynll?g) a myle and more by foote path from Cairlion, and standeth on (the river) Uske, having a prety stronge town ; but I marked not whyther yt were waulled or no.

No other visitor to Newport has recorded seeing a town wall, although many have claimed there was one there once. For example William Coxe in his "An Historical Tour in Monmouthshire", published in 1801, claims:

Newport was once surrounded by walls, though no vestiges at present remain.

However the Newport historian James Matthews in his book "Historic Newport", published in 1910, states:

That extravagant and unwarrantable statement : "Walls of considerable strength surrounded Newport (!) in the palmy days of the Castle" ought to be dismissed from the mind of every intelligent person, as there is not an atom of evidence that can be brought forward in support of such a recital.

Since then most historians have been circumspect on the issue, although the presence of gates into the town has never been challenged.

One of the gates mentioned by Leland is the East Gate by the bridge. (7 on the conjectural view of Medieval Newport) An engraving of Newport Castle published in 1732, by Samuel and Nathaniel Buck, shows a stone gate with a pointed arch across the west end of a wooden bridge.

William Coxe records in 1801 that:

The pivots belonging to the hinges of the east gate, near the bridge, are discernible in the walls.

The West Gate is still commemorated by the Westgate Hotel building on its site. The 15th century gate crossed the road between High Street and Stow Hill (Commercial Street not existing at that time) and was demolished in 1799. It was replaced with a hotel, and this in turn was replaced by the present building in 1884. The proprietor of the Westgate Hotel at that time was Mr Samuel Dean. He recorded that:

In excavating underneath the old (former) Westgate Hotel, preparing the foundations of the present building, the workmen came across an old spiral stairway, and at the bottom a stone porch, forming the entrance into a subterraneous passage or subway, was discovered, leading under the road (Stow Hill).

In a 1570 survey of rents in Newport owed to the Earl of Pembroke, there is a reference to "Crooks Gate", which appears to be the West Gate, and probably refers to a prison in the gate. In 1801 William Coxe refers to the West Gate as having been used as the town prison, and that it had lately been taken down. He called it an ancient structure in the gothic style, built of red grit stone, with a shield charged with a chevron on each side. The shield was probably from the coat of arms of the earls of Stafford, later dukes of Buckingham, who were lords of Newport from 1347 until 1521.

The Middle Gate could not be identified in Coxe's time, and it has been suggested that it stood in the middle of the High Street. However a logical position would have been in Thomas Street. (4 on the conjectural view of Medieval Newport) This street no longer exists but used to go from alongside the old Post Office building in High Street, opposite the Kings Head Hotel, towards the present Queensway and the Railway Station. This street provided access from the north of the town.

In addition to these three gates there appear to have been other gates. Newport Castle had both a north and south gate in its curtain walls, and there are records of a Paynes Gate, which gave access to Baneswell.

Of course these gates may not have been defensive structures, and James Matthews even refers to the old West Gate as a Toll Booth. There is also the Public House called the Murenger House, in High Street, which allegedly belonged to the Murenger (an official responsible for town walls and for collecting money for their maintenance). However the Murenger House is Tudor in date, after the assumed walls were no longer effective. It is believed to have been built as a town house for Sir Charles Herbert, High Sheriff of Monmouthshire, and in the 18th century was a public house called the 'Fleur de Lys', not 'The Murenger'. It would appear that the name was introduced at a much later date than the existence of any walls. In any case in 1324 the then lord, Hugh Despenser, obtained freedom for the burgesses of a number of towns, including Newport, from payment of "murage" tax, so presumably there would have been no need for a murenger.

However there is at least some documentary evidence to Newport having town walls. A 12th century charter by William, earl of Gloucester, refers to granting the Priory of Goldcliff property "outside the walls in Newport". In the Gwent Record Office is a deed dated 1433 in which Humphrey, earl of Stafford, granted John of Newport the right to erect and maintain a tenement "situated on the walls of the town adjacent to Gervey's Gowte". The origin of "Gervey" is probably the personal name Gervais, but "Gowte" means gate, often associated with sluice gates used in drainage.

This is little to go on, but there are many references to the Great Bailey and the Small Bailey of the town. The term 'bailey' usually refers to the external wall surrounding the outer court of a castle, or to the spaces between the circuits or walls of a castle. Yet in the case of Newport these baileys contain a number of properties, which in the 1570 survey were all paying rents to the Lord.

During the Middle Ages the town of Newport was divided by the Town Pill and it is clear from this survey that the Great Bailey was in the area between High Street and the River Usk, around Market Street, Griffin Street and part of Kingsway. The Small Bailey was to the south of the Town Pill and included the area around Skinner Street and what is now the Riverfront Theatre (where the Newport Ship was found). This would suggest that the town was once defended, but whether by a wall or just a ditch is not known.

Further clues come from looking at early property boundaries, and in particular at a 'Trigonometrical Survey of Newport' published in the early 1850's. Newport Castle once had a curtain wall behind the surviving frontage. This was noted by William Coxe and a small part of the north curtain wall was standing until 1970 when it was removed during road widening.

However in 1885 the antiquarian Octavius Morgan produced a plan of the castle. The ward within the curtain wall was sub-rectangular. The south curtain wall was at a right angle to the main castle range alongside the river, but the north curtain wall was at an odd angle, slanting slightly to the south.

There appears to be no obvious reason for this, but by looking at the Trigonometrical Survey it is possible to line up the north curtain wall of the castle with old property boundaries, now mostly gone. These property boundaries cross Thomas Street, where the street is shown as widening out and where there is a likely position for a Middle Gate. (see plan) With a few gaps the property boundaries continue west, then curve around the back of High Street and continue to the vicinity of the West Gate. Across the other side of the West Gate property boundaries to the south of Skinner Street continue in a curve until the older boundaries are obliterated by the construction of the old Monmouthshire Canal. However by looking at 18th century maps of Newport it is possible to reconstruct a boundary continuing to the river, where an old pill or inlet once existed containing the Newport Medieval Ship.

There is much more that could be said for or against there being a town wall around Newport. One serious problem is that it would appear that no physical evidence of a strong stone defensive wall has ever been discovered. I would counter that with the fact that when I was Curator of Newport Museum there were only a handful of medieval objects known from the whole of Newport - at least until the ship was discovered. Most of these consisted of two shoe boxes of late medieval or Tudor pottery from Newport Castle, some 14th century pottery from the National Provincial Bank (now NatWest) opposite the Westgate Hotel, and some Tudor or later pottery from the Murrenger House. In addition there were two Medieval tiles from St Woolos (outside the town) and part of a 15th century stone cross found in the river. With the 19th and 20th century rapid expansion of Newport little was saved, and most of the Medieval town was obliterated without record.

However the present stone castle is known to have been built in the 14th and 15th centuries - so a town wall, if it existed, would have been there already. What if the castle north curtain wall was originally part of the town wall, and then incorporated into the new castle? It would certainly explain the odd angle! Another possible clue is that in 1447-1448 the north curtain wall of the castle was raised by 3 feet (or according to one account by 6 feet). It is interesting to speculate whether this was the old town wall being improved in order to match the rest of the curtain wall of the castle. The west and south wall would have been newer and purpose built.

It is likely that the early defences of the town would have consisted of a timber palisade and a ditch, protected by a timber castle and there is still no definitive proof that a stone town wall did exist or when it was built. Without proper archaeological work in Newport we may never know.

© Bob Trett 2007