Newport Past

Stow Hill

© Bob Trett 2007

The first settlement (before the Norman foundation of Newport) was on Stow Hill. The name "Stow" shows Anglo-Saxon connections with the area, but the original settlement by tradition relates to St Gwynllyw (St Woolos) founding the church in the fifth or sixth century. After the Norman Conquest Robert fitz Hamon seized Wentloog, and the settlement is thought to have expanded down Stow Hill, and the new borough established by the town bridge. At some point a castle was built to protect the bridge and the town.

St Woolos Church
(SMR references 220468 & 08205g ST 33090 18760)

According to an early 13th century manuscript "The Life of S. Gundleus" (i) and other early accounts, the church of St Gwynllyw (later corrupted to Woolos) was founded by the Welsh ruler St. Gwynllyw in the fifth or sixth century, after his conversion to Christianity. A chapel dedicated to his wife, Gwladys, allegedly stood by the crossing of the Ebbw River, on the southern slopes of Stow Hill. These accounts were written centuries after the events they describe, and rely mostly on the oral tradition passed down the generations by Welsh bards. They are also contradictory at times but it is clear that the name Gwynllyw gave its name to the Welsh cantref known later as Wentloog.

The earliest surviving parts of the church (the present St Woolos Cathedral) date to the Norman period. The decorated doorway in St Mary's Chapel with its naively carved capitals, together with the five bay nave of the main church, are twelfth century, with the walls of the chapel believed to be thirteenth century, and the tower late fifteenth century. The statue of a knight on the tower is thought to be the then lord of Newport, Jasper Tudor, earl of Pembroke and duke of Bedford. It was once thought to represent St Gwynllyw himself, but a Tudor rose and other designs under the parapet of the tower suggest it could be Jasper. Other parts of the present cathedral are post medieval or modern.

After the establishment of the new borough (Newport) the church remained just outside, within the Manor of Stow. The 1427 charter given to Newport identifies the graveyard of St Woolos as being on the boundary of Newport. At the end of the 11th century the church was given to the monastery of St Peter at Gloucester by Robert de Hay. The church was at times the centre of disputes over its rights, but it remained the parish church for the borough.

The road from Newport Bridge through Newport High Street and Stow Hill split just above St Woolos Church. One road (now Friars Road) was the former way to Cardiff, whilst the other road along Stow Hill went to Bassaleg and to the north of the lordship via the Ebbw Valley, but was also the way to Caerphilly.

The Tithe Barn
(SMR reference 00157g ST 33087 18756)

Around the south side of the church was a small cluster of houses including The Tithe Barn which is on the site of offices currently belonging to Kier Western. A building south of the church and probably the tithe barn, is shown on a Survey of Newport in 1752 by Thomas Thorpe. The barn is again shown on the tithe apportionment of 1845 and is described as the "Rectorial Tithe Barn and Yard, 24 perches in size, occupier William Jones". It is also marked on the 1/500 Ordnance Survey map surveyed in 1881. A wall of stone rubble with some partly dressed stone blocks can still be seen from the road facing the church. Some of the stone work seems to be a crude chequer pattern of grey and red sandstone. Disputes over tithes are mentioned in documents in 1146, 1239 and 1255. In 1321 Hugh Audley is said to have burnt some barns at Newport - although it is not known whether this included the tithe barn.

Stow Hill Motte
(SMR reference 00157g ST 33048 18743)

A mound, probably from a Norman motte and bailey castle, used to stand in the grounds of the former Springfield House. The mound is clearly shown on the 1845 tithe apportionment map, standing in the middle of a field. This site is in or near the back garden of 28 Stow Park Avenue, and close to the Springfield Day Centre of St Woolos Hospital. According to the Newport historian Octavius Morgan the mound was traditionally believed to be the burial place of St Gwynllyw, and was covered by spoil from the railway tunnel which runs underneath. The summit of the mound was flat and exactly 50 feet in diameter. Other 18th century writers including William Coxe refer to it as the "barrow called Twyn Gwnlliw".

It is probable that the mound was not a barrow but a castle mound, probably 12th century, and that it was probably the precursor of the present Newport Castle by the bridge. It would have had a timber keep on the mound, and possibly a bailey with a timber palisade. It has also been suggested that the castle on Stow Hill was in use as the castle of Newport until the 14th century. However there is no proof of this - except for the fact that the later stone castle at Newport has no evidence of any building stage prior to the 14th century. It is also questionable whether the lord of Newport would have left the new borough unprotected, in view of the importance of the river crossing.

Possible site of Manor House?
(ST 3308 1878 approx.)

The first Ordnance Survey map of 1833 shows a large double-banked rectangular structure marked Ancient Remains to the north of Stow Hill, approximately at the junction of the present St Woolos Road and Jones Street. The site is marked on an 1837 map of Newport (showing proposed changes to the municipal boundaries of Newport) as an oval shaped mound. These "Ancient Remains" are outside the earlier boundary of Newport and are in the Manor of Stow. A field shown on a map entitled "Plan of Newport from actual Survey 1836" shows a kink in its boundary corner at the same location. The 1845 tithe apportionment map of the area shows this location to be at the junction of four fields, with the most northern field (marked 297) having a protuberance on its boundary at the spot.

There is no other evidence at present to demonstrate what this feature was. However William Rees in his "Charters of Newport" published in 1951, claims that the lord's manor of Newport was at Stow, near the church of St Woolos where, adjacent to the manor-house, was the usual complement of buildings, also pigeon cote and fishpond. It will need further investigation to establish whether this was the Manor House site.

The Stow Manor Pound
(ST 33082 18759)

This is shown on a map of Newport of 1752 by Thomas Thorpe, where it is to the west of the tower of St Woolos Church, just outside the churchyard as it was then. However presumably because of an extension to the churchyard the pound had been moved by 1845. The 1845 tithe apportionment map shows it much further to the west of Stow Hill and beyond the then Union Poor House (at ST 33041 18755). This later pound is marked as "Manor Pound 1½ perches, owner Sir Charles Morgan Baronet".


Stone Quarry

(SMR 00168g ST 330900 187700)

The accounts for repairing Newport Castle in 1447/8 refer to a payment to Thomas Galett for the digging and carriage of "wall-stone" from the ground of the lord near Stowe, formerly of the Abbot of Keynsham. This has been assumed to be "Church Field", later to be the burial ground for St Woolos Church, and now a small park. It is likely that most of the sandstone used in the buildings of medieval Newport was quarried from Stow Hill and other surrounding hills.

The Wayside Cross
(SMR 00209g ST 33101 18789)
10 on the conjectural view of Medieval Newport

The base of a medieval cross stood on Stow Hill on the north corner of Havelock Street. The base was removed in recent years to the churchyard of St Woolos Cathedral. It has probably wrongly been associated with the ornate head of a fifteenth century cross founding the River Usk near Newport Bridge in 1925. This cross head represents the Crucifixion with what appear to be the Virgin Mary, St John, St Catherine and St Margaret. The head is now in Newport Museum, with a modern replica of the cross standing in Newport High Street.

 

(i) British Library MS. Cotton. Vespas D.xxii

© Bob Trett 2007